CHOEUNG EK PHNOM PENH KILLING FIELDS VISITOR GUIDE
A visit to Phnom Penh is also an encounter with Cambodia’s dark past and history and while it might not be the kind of superficial travel experience, such as sipping a cocktail at the beach or taking a massage, visiting the Phnom Penh killing fields or Choeung Ek is an educative experience that will teach you about one of the most cruel genocides in history.
The atrocities inflicted by the Khmer Rouge regime in the 1970s devastated Cambodia, taking something like 1,7 million lives, although some sources suggest the number was even bigger reaching 2,2 millions whic was 21 % of the Cambodian population at that time.
Understanding this dark history and the reasons why it happened is mandatory in order to avoid such kind of conflicts to happen in the future.
My visit to the site was a combined Phnom Penh killing fields tour combined with a visit to the S21 prison.
I am putting this guide together to help you prepare this visit to this site.
ABOUT THE KILLING FIELDS CHOEUNG EK GENOCIDAL CENTER
Choeung Ek or the so called Phnom Penh killing fields was a former orchard near Phnom Penh that was used as one of the many killing fields spread around `Cambodia between 1975 and 1979 by the Khmer Rouge during the Cambodian genocide.
The bodies of 8895 victims were exhumed from the site after the fall of the Khmer Rouge and it is estimated that approximately 17 000 people were executed here. This site was linked to the S21 or Tuol Sleng detention center in central Phonm Penh and both places are usually covered in one tour.
The is one of the darkest chapters in human history and began with the Khmer Rouge regime under the leadership of Pol Pot. The Khmer Rouge took power in Cambodia in April 1975 following some years of civil unrest and conflict.
The aim of the regime was to create an agrarian utopia based on Marxist-Leninist principles. Under their revolution the Khmer Rouge implemented social engineering policies, evacuating people from urban areas, abolishing currency, religion, private property and dismantling social institutions. They sought to eliminate state enemies, including intellectuals, professionals and religious minorities. I read in one of the panels that people could get killed for just wearing glasses or well taken care of hands. The regime lead to mass executions and brought the country back to under development and devastation. The scars of this horrific period affect Cambodian people up to this day.
KILLING FIELDS PHONM PENH CHOEUNG EK LOCATION
The killing fields are located 17 km from Phnom Penh city center. You can find a pin with the location:
MY EXPERIENCE VISITING THE PHNOM PENH CHOEUNG EK KILLING FIELDS
The killing fields are very hard place to visit but a really educative experience and a gently reminder of the atrocities huma kind is capable.
I recommend you to book a cheerful activity in the evening such as the Phnom Penh sunset tour or a nice massage to feel good about the whole thing.
The killing fields are quite a emotional place to visit and as you will see bone fragments and clothes spread all around a guide is mandatory to explain what all this is about. My tour included an guide audio tour with headphones that I listed to while I was walking around the site. There are certain lanes you need to respect as there are still bone fragments and clothings that comes out after rainy days and you will be reminded not to pick up anything or step into it.
Prisoners from the S21 were usually brought here in the night and prisoners were executed in the most cruel ways with machetes or hammers. The Khmer Rouge did not want to waste bullets on the prisoners, that how little worth the lives of these people were for them.
As I walked through the site I was horrified by the stories that I was listening and sometimes I had to stop the audio recording the take a deep breath and recompose myself.
And one of the most horrific places in the site is the so called Killing Tree where lots of colorful bracelets were hanging. This tree was the most horrific place on the site as it was used to kill babies. The Khmer Rouge did not want to leave anybody of a family alive that could seek revenge in the future.
As you walk through the site there are several places with bone collections and you will hear several stories on the audio. And yes there was a story of hope and survival of one of the few that managed to scape from there, a glimpse of light in a site of horror.
And the final place you will visit in the site before your exit is the memorial tower, that was built as a memorial for the victims of the fields. The memorial site has been turned into a Buddhist stupa that houses more than 5000 skulls of the people who perished on the site.
SHOULD YOU VISIT THE PHNOM PENH CHOEUNG EK KILLING FIELDS
Visiting the Phnom Penh killing fields is a very personal decision as it can be pretty emotional and distressing experience. Watching the remains of the mass graves and listening to the suffering stories of all the people whose life ended there can be pretty intense and not the kind of experience you might want to do during your holiday.
If you are decide to visit the place is also important to visit the place with respect and sensitivity, understanding the significance and pain the Cambodian people and the significance of the site for them.
Visiting the killing fields can be a very educational experience but you need to assess your emotional readiness to visit the place.
I felt quite distressed by the site and made sure I did something to uplift myself after the visit.
But on the other hand I was happy to learn about a part of history I knew very little.
USEFUL VISIT INFORMATION
- Opening Hours: The Killing Fields are typically open daily from morning until late afternoon. It’s advisable to check the exact opening hours before your visit.
- Admission Fees: There is an entrance fee to visit the Killing Fields, which helps with the maintenance and preservation of the site. The fee is $3 dollars for the entrance ticket and other 3$ for the audio guide.
- Guided Tours: Guided tours are available and highly recommended for a more informative and meaningful experience. Knowledgeable guides provide insight into the history and significance of the site.
- Respectful Attire: As the Killing Fields are a memorial site, visitors are advised to dress modestly and respectfully. Avoid wearing revealing clothing out of respect for the victims and survivors.
- Emotional Preparation: Visiting the Killing Fields can be emotionally challenging due to the site’s tragic history. Prepare yourself mentally and emotionally for the experience, and consider seeking support if needed.
- Photography: While photography is permitted at the Killing Fields, it’s important to do so respectfully. Refrain from taking selfies or posing inappropriately out of respect for the solemnity of the site.
- Memorial Tokens: Visitors may choose to leave tokens of remembrance or respect at the site, such as flowers or incense sticks, as a gesture of honoring the victims.
BEST PHNOM PENH CHOEUNG EK KILLING FIELDS TOURS
The best way to visit the Killing fields is by tour package and combined your visit with the S21 prison. Both places are quite heavy to digest and they are historically correlated so the best thing is to do it all in one day.
Find here a selection of the best tours to visit the site, make sure to book in advance to not miss your spot:
Phnom Penh: The killing fields and Tuol Sleng Genocide museum: This tour includes pick up and grop off and the pick up point, air conditioned van, guide and water and it lasts four hours.
Phnom Penh killing fields Choeung Ek private tour: This private tour will bring you in all comfort to the site with a very experience English speaking tour guide and with air conditioning and comfort.
Phnom Penh killing fields, S21 and city tour: This tour is ideal is you are on short time in Phnom Penh as it will bring you to the most significant landmarks in the city and to the killing fields.
Phnom Penh killing fields and S21 private tour: This is one of the most top rated tours to visit the sites. It will bring so on a private tour and a relaxed manner to the sites with a skillful and English speaking tour guide that will help you understand all important historical details.
HOW TO VISIT THE KILLING FIELDS RESPONSIBLY AND RESPECTFULLY
A visit to the killings fields must be done in a respectful way for the victims and their families. I advise you to do some historical research before visiting the site to understand the context. While on the site dress modestly and avoid loud conversations or inappropriate behavior. Listen to the audio guides and follow all rules and get to understand the significance of the site. Avoid touching anything around you or disturbing your surroundings.
Reflect on what it happened there and show empathy for the victims and their families and consider leaving a donation for organizations supporting victims.
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